Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Seattle Times Restaurant Critic Cicero Says Spur's Cooking Has Integrity as Well as Verve

We were thrilled to read Providence Cicero's review of Spur. She calls out a number of our menu items like Beef Carpaccio and Tagliatelle and nods to David's cocktail alchemy. Take the time to read the entire review on the Times website (link above), but in the meantime, here's a teaser of what she said:

"... Spur, where fooling around with food is part of the fun. Co-chefs Brian McCracken and Dana Tough dabble in the shape-shifting world of molecular gastronomy, finding new ways to manipulate flavor and texture, but they do so judiciously, not just for effect.

Fried béarnaise sounds like a gimmick, but that rich sauce, transformed into springy, grape-size globules, released a flood of tarragon in the mouth, mightily enhancing tissue-thin raw beef.
Foam did indeed froth from the pasta. It faintly echoed the smoky oyster mushrooms and melting ribbons of nutty parmesan that clung to the fresh noodles. A duck egg, cooked sous vide to a quivering, semisolid state, nested among the tiny bubbles. A vigorous toss with fork and spoon distributed pale foam and orange yolk, and the result was akin to a divine carbonara sauce."

Photo of tagliatelle with oyster mushrooms by DEAN RUTZ for the SEATTLE TIMES

1 comment:

gopons said...

I came to Seattle the week after Halloween to check out some new restaurants to promote. I have to admit, that I did not expect the weather to be as harsh.

It had been perfectly clear weather the week prior, then came down in buckets the week I was there. Now, reading your review, I am really sad I did not brave the elements for what sounds like an amazing menu.

I know I'll be back, and Spur will be at the top of my list.

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